Many wineries in Texas have tasting rooms where you can stop in to taste and enjoy their wines. Others don’t have a tasting room and instead make custom wine for local organizations and entities. VIÑADOR is one of those latter wineries. Just like a traditional winery that has a tasting room, the custom wine wineries also have head winemakers, and VIÑADOR’s winemaker is Brian Cheeseborough. Brian has an extensive winemaking background, and we are happy to feature Brian Cheeseborough for this month’s Winemaker Profile.
- What did you do before becoming a winemaker?
Ocean lifeguard (Salt Creek Beach) in Orange County and commercial real estate in Southern California, primarily with multi-family, office, and marinas through private equity, commercial mortgage, and leasing.
- What is the toughest challenge about being a winemaker in Texas?
I’ve made wine on five continents; every environment and terroir has its challenges. Here in Texas, we adapt to the weather, including the high winds and hail in late spring/early summer, as well as occasional rains during the latter part of the harvest. Specific varietals can’t handle the heat, while others thrive.
- Is winemaking an art or a science or both?
At its core, winemaking is a science; after you understand the microbiology and chemistry, you can start to understand the limits better. Then, testing the boundaries isn’t as risky, and you can adopt some artistic license, but never forget the principles.
- What is your favorite food and wine pairing?
Presently, I enjoy Primitivo with brisket or a Sauvignon Blanc with ceviche. Still, my all-time favorite is well-aged Petite Sirah, accompanied by a medium-rare ribeye, sautéed mushrooms, blue cheese, and fresh cracked pepper.
- If you didn’t make wine, what would you do?
With a bachelor’s degree in Sociology? Haha, I would open “The Veranda,” a cantina serving a cornucopia of tacos and tapas, a wine bar, and live jazz. I had the chance to change my career path after graduate school, but I’ve stayed the course, crushing grapes and fermenting.
- What first attracted you to winemaking and how long have you been doing it?
I grew up across the road from a raisin vineyard, and there was a large winery just down the road. Making wine has always been a passion project; even when I was dealing in real estate in the 90s, I always had one eye on the vines. When 9/11 happened, my career made a 180° turn, and I found myself in the classroom at Fresno State for post-baccalaureate studies in Chemistry, Enology, and Viticulture.
- What is the most common question you are asked as a winemaker?
“What’s your favorite wine?” And my response is simple, “What’s for dinner?”
- After a long day in the winery or vineyard, what do you do?
I am an avid reader of history and biographies, current financial markets, and old western movies.
- What’s the greatest part about being a winemaker?
Remembering the long-term goal. The wine is for people’s enjoyment, whether it’s for a birthday, anniversary, or simply because it’s Thursday evening–make it as good as you can.
- What is your winemaking philosophy, that is, what are you trying to achieve with your wines?
I’d classify my philosophy and style as neo-classical/post-modern with a traditional old-world influence, with terroir-driven, fruit-forward wines but I’m not opposed to using oak to aid in the structure and aroma of the wines either.
- Anything else you would like to add?
2025 will be my 27th vintage since the fall of 2003, due to multiple vintages in the Southern hemisphere (Argentina and New Zealand), and I’m still just as excited.
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