Picpoul Blanc Is the Lip Stinger That’s Hot in Texas

Native to the Languedoc (pronounced ‘long-dock’) region of Southern France, Picpoul Blanc is a white wine grape gaining popularity in Texas. The name translates to “lip stinger,” referring to the high acidity the wine is known for. It’s an ideal thirst quencher alongside a plate of oysters or shrimp cocktail on a hot day. Does this sound like Texas to you?!

In Spain, the grape is known as Picapoll, which is the same variety as Piquepoul, and Picpoul. “Picpouille” is a different variety, also known as Folle Blanche. Actually, Picquepoul was originally a red wine grape that was changed by genetic mutation to a white grape. And we’ll complicate things even more because Picpoul Gris and Picpoul Noir are also different grapes!

Piquepoul de Pinet refers to the French village of Pinet, where the grape grows prolifically and has been cultivated for wines since the 1300s. The wine industry website Sevenfifty.com says, “A grape called ‘picapoll‘ appeared in journals of Latin winemakers working in the Languedoc as early as the 14th century. In 1618, Piquepoul was named one of the region’s six most important varieties by the famed botanist Pierre Maniol. Today, in the Picpoul de Pinet AOL located near the middle of the Languedoc, there are 24 producers crafting single-variety Picpoul from 1,400 hectares of vines [about 3,450 acres]. Though small, it’s the largest white wine appellation in the Languedoc.” In the southern Rhône Valley, Picpoul is commonly blended with Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Roussanne, and Picardan. The natural acid of Picpoul makes white Châteauneuf-du-Pape some of the world’s best white wines.

Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, California, was the first winery to plant the grape in the U.S. in 2000. The winery has since cultivated most of the vines growing around the country today. The U.S. has about 75 acres planted in California, Washington, and Texas.

The grape has gained popularity for its combination of simplicity and complexity. It is crisp and refreshing on its own. The acid has a zig-zag texture on your tongue, similar to Sauvignon Blanc, but without the sour bite. The body is lighter, like Pinot Grigio, while the salty minerality leaves you wanting more. The wine’s bright fruitiness appeals to beginner and expert wine drinkers alike, and its complexity makes for a versatile food companion.

The aroma of Picpoul Blanc brings to mind lemon meringue pie, a salty seacoast, and fresh tangerine plucked from a tree. Expect flavors of lemon curd, honeydew melon, lime zest, white flowers, peach skin, and crushed rocks. Delicious food pairings include just about any seafood! Consider raw oysters, boiled shrimp with cocktail sauce or grilled with veggies on a skewer, grilled Mahi Mahi with fresh tropical fruits, carbonara pasta, chicken fettuccini alfredo, and my specialty of Gruyere grilled cheese with crispy bacon.

The grape thrives in areas with lots of sun and heat (again, does this sound like Texas?!). When left on the vine a bit longer, the aromas become more intense and lean towards orange and lemon. These later harvest grapes can be a bit more complex.

While there will always be a place for the racy acidity of a traditional Picpoul Blanc, some producers are branching out to new styles, looking to create earthier wines that will age well. One example is Bending Branch Winery in Comfort, which barrel-ferments and barrel-ages to add another layer of body and texture to the wine. Dr. Bob Young says the grape is quite versatile. From blending to barrel fermentation, skin contact to canned, sparkling to malolactic, the grape can be quite tasty in all formats. For winemakers who love to experiment, this Picpoul Blanc is ripe for trying out different techniques.

While the grape isn’t well-known to the average consumer, it’s an easy sell to drinkers who love Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and other light to medium-bodied whites.

I’ve talked with several growers and winemakers using Picpoul Blanc in Texas, and I’m excited to share some of the things I’ve learned. CJ Kubacak is a grower in Tahoka in the Texas High Plains. He planted four acres of Picpoul Blanc in 2016 and an additional three in 2022. CJ says, “We had our first little harvest of just 1.6 tons in 2017, and it went to Southold Farm and Cellar. It was blended with some Roussanne to make their white wine called ‘Don’t Forget to Soar,’ which was served in the White House, only the second Texas wine ever.” That deserves some kudos! To back that up, in 2019, Kubacak Vineyards sold Picpoul to Perissos Vineyard and Winery for the first time, and they ended up winning Double Gold at the well-respected San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition in 2021.

Kubacak shares more, “From a grower standpoint, Picpoul is not necessarily a cold-hardy variety based on primary bud death counts. That is counteracted by the fact that it loves to produce fruit. We have experienced around 90% primary bud death from a really cold winter, and it will still produce three tons per acre.” Growers should also know that if not properly thinned early in the growing season, the vines produce huge clusters that like to lay on top of each other.

If you enjoy trying wines from their original region, look for Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc Roussillon, France. Founded in 1932 as part of a vineyard cooperative, these vines are an average of 20 years old.

For Texas-grown Picpoul Blanc, there are several excellent examples. Look to Bending Branch for a Texas Hill Country estate bottling that you can compare to the Texas High Plains. Also in the Hill Country, look for Perissos Vineyard and Winery, which has a heavier mouthfeel than most examples of this grape. You’ll find great examples grown from Kubacak Vineyards in the Yellow House Cellars and Llano Estacado Winery labels. Lost Draw makes a nice bottle from Timmons Estate Vineyard in the High Plains. Looking to North Texas, Dove Ridge Winery in Weatherford has a bright, crisp bottling from 2023 that will be released in the spring of ’24. Red River Wines and Provisions will open in Sadler this year with their Picpoul/Roussanne blend, which has a nice body.

Truly, you can’t go wrong with Picpoul Blanc in Texas. More vines are being planted, and more producers are making wine from this interesting grape. If you like a flavorful white wine, give Picpoul Blanc a try when you see it on a menu.

Be sure to use the Wines menu on the website Plan Your Trip and the mobile app to find Texas wineries that serve Picpoul Blanc wines.