The Montepulciano grape is easily confused with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano which is the Sangiovese-based red wine from the Montepulciano region in Tuscany, Italy. The Montepulciano variety is the second most planted in the country, next to Sangiovese. Montepulciano is the primary grape in the DOCG wines Offida Rosso, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, Rosso Conero, and the DOC wine Rosso Piceno Superiore. DOCG stands for ‘di origins controllers e grantita‘ and is the highest wine classification in Italy. All DOCG wines are analyzed and tested by government-licensed judges before being bottled and are affixed with a seal across the cap or cork. DOC is still meant to recognize a quality wine. In the 1980s, more restrictive rules were put into place by a presidential decree because it was evident there was a variation on what ‘high quality‘ means.
We can attribute this grape variety being produced into wine to the Etruscans. Most commonly grown in Abruzzo, Italy, Montepulciano is native to this region that stretches between the Adriatic Sea in the East and the Apennine Mountains in the West. The relationship between mountains and sea is obvious in this part of Italy due to the temperature variations that yield a constant breeze known here as the “brezza di terra.”
This grape produces medium-bodied, inky wines dominated by dark fruit flavors, often with notes of chocolate, especially when aged four years or more. When produced in oak, these wines reveal grippy tannins and a robust herbal flavor with hints of tobacco. Oak-aged Italian Montepulciano have a nearly cult-like following due to the richness they deliver at a moderate price. Expect dark fruit flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, prune, and sometimes licorice. Oak influences will include vanilla bean, cocoa, mocha, herbs, and tobacco. The skins of this grape have a high concentration of anthocyanin, which gives a dark color and tannins. Some producers leave only a short skin contact time to create a style of wine that is light and approachable in its youth. These bottles will present a different profile, like cherries, red plum, cranberry jam, a bit of dried herbs, violet flowers, and even an ashy earthiness. I personally find these characteristics often in Texas Montepulciano examples.
As with most medium reds, Montepulciano wines pair with a wide variety of foods. The velvety tannins of the wine lean into a richer and more savory dish. Fatty meats, like beef brisket, and creamy dishes like mushroom risotto will balance nicely. For an easy pairing, try this wine with rich Macaroni and Cheese (read what Carl Hudson said about mac and cheese!). On a charcuterie board, think salami and strong aged cheese like Asiago, and add a bit of indulgence with duck pâté.
I organized a small group of industry professionals to taste through a lineup on Texas Montepulciano. I’d like to thank my friend Brad Cummins for contributing the bottle of Rambouillet from Christoval Vineyards. And the 2014 Hye Meadow was from my personal collection. Big thanks to Whisper Path Cellars, Turtle Creek Vineyard, Serrano Wine, Blue Ostrich Winery and Vineyard, and Hilmy Cellars, who all contributed bottles for this tasting. Let me first say that the 2014 Hye Meadow Winery The Full Monty was a perfect example of a Texas wine holding up well over a decade. Well done, Mike Batek! Our consensus of the top three wines of the night are:
- Serrano Wine 2019 Montepulciano – Diamanté Dobles Vineyard, Texas High Plains
- Hilmy Cellars 2021 Montepulciano – Veesart Vineyards, Texas High Plains
- Turtle Creek Vineyard 2020 Estate Montepulciano – Texas Hill Country
I keep Montepulciano on hand at home because the wine is easy to drink on a hot summer day, plus, it pairs beautifully with a DiGiorno’s frozen pizza or a nice charcuterie board. Cheers y’all!
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