Whether You Call It Grenache, Garnacha, or Cannonau, This Is a Grape Worth Getting to Know

Grenache, ready for harvest at Hawk’s Shadow Winery

Grenache is the most widely planted grape in France’s southern Rhône Valley. Over 456,000 acres of Grenache are planted worldwide making it the second most widely planted grape. It is also known as Grenache Noir to distinguish it from its white counterpart Grenache Blanc, which is most often blended. In France, there are 250,000 acres or more, mainly in the Rhône Valley. Spain grows 170,000 acres, namely in Priorat and Calatayud, and calls the grape Garnacha or Garnatxa. Italy has over 55,000 acres in Sardinia, Sicily, and Calabria, where the grape is referred to as Cannonau. Southern Australia grows about 8,000 acres.

Did you know? China has seven wine grape growing regions and has reported 12,000 acres of Grenache. And in the US, we’ll find over 10,000 acres, mostly in California, with some in Washington and Texas. Here in Texas, our vines are young, and the fruit is often used for rosé. You may see a Grenache labeled as Alicante, which is not the same as Alicante Bouschet that we are seeing a surge of in Texas.

While Grenache is often made into a delicious rosé, when it is made into a red wine, it is often blended with other grapes of the region. Syrah and Mourvèdre are typical grapes blended with Grenache in France and Australia. In the Rioja region of Spain, it is often blended with Tempranillo. The grape reaches its peak in the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape where it comprises 70% of the acreage.

Garnacha appears to have originated in Spain, most likely in the northern province of Aragon, where ampelographers believe that Grenache was the foundation of Aragon’s excellent vin rouge du pays. From Aragon, it spread throughout the vineyards of Spain and the Mediterranean in conjunction with the reach of the kingdom of Aragon, which included Roussillon and Sardinia. By the early 18th century, the variety had expanded into France’s Languedoc and Provence regions.

Brought to California in the 1860s, Grenache’s vigor and resistance to drought made it a popular planting choice. It came to occupy second place in vineyard planting after Carignan and was an element in wine producers’ branded field blends. Unfortunately, this usage encouraged growers to select cuttings from the most productive vines, increasing grape production but reducing the overall quality of the vine stock. In recent years, Grenache plantings in California have declined as the demand for bulk wine in the Central Valley has shifted toward Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. While overall Grenache acreage has declined in California, there are currently 4,500 acres planted. The variety has recently grown in popularity, with more than 1,000 new acres planted in the last 15 years in high-quality coastal appellations, with the most significant number concentrated in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties.

In 1990, Tablas Creek Vineyard began in Paso Robles, California. They are responsible for bringing many of the French Rhône grapes to the US, including Grenache Noir cuttings from Jacques Perrin at Château de Beaucastel. The Perrins feel that vine age is essential in making top-quality Grenache. Because of the need for age on the vines, it took longer for Tablas Creek to become happy with their Grenache compared with any of their other varieties. The initial expectations were to produce wines that were one-third or more Grenache, and they planted the vineyard accordingly. However, the early harvests of Grenache showed little of the depth wanted and had aggressive front-palate tannins that were in striking contrast to the smoothness of Mourvèdre and Syrah. It was only beginning with the 2005 vintage that Tablas Creek became pleased with the grape’s performance, and the following year, they began to use Grenache for a single-varietal wine.

It’s a little-known fact that in the 17th century, Burgundian winemakers blended a little Grenache from the Rhône into their Pinot Noir to improve the complexity of the wines. Of course, that was back when adding grapes from a different region was not yet illegal in France.

For the most highly regarded Grenache, look for the $600 Chateau Rayas or Domaine du Pegau, both from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In Priorate, Clos Erasmus and Alvara Palacio’s Ermita Velle Vinyes are two cult wines at about $300. Sine Qua Non from Santa Barbara runs $500.

Grenache is a vigorous variety with upright shoots that lends itself to “goblet” or “head training.” It is widely cultivated in this manner in France and Spain. The fruit ripens in the middle of the ripening cycle, after Syrah but before Counoise and Mourvèdre. At harvest, it is notable for its high acidity, present even at relatively high sugar levels.

Grenache produces dry wines with medium-full body, medium tannins, and acidity. Its flavors are typically currant, stewed cherry, or strawberry, plum or grilled plum, citrus rind, and dried herbs. Aromas of black pepper, menthol, tobacco, and licorice add complexity to the wines. Although many California Grenache clones produce simple, fruity wines that tend to be pale in color, our French clones produce brilliant ruby red wines that are high in alcohol (usually 15% or higher) and intensely fruity.

For detecting a Grenache in a blind tasting, look for fruitiness that reminds you of your childhood Fruit Rollups. Cinnamon is another give away. The color is semi-translucent and a lighter red than the wine’s medium body and high alcohol might suggest. Old-World Grenache, such as Rhône and Sardinia, will give herbal notes of dried oregano and tobacco leaf. When produced in Calatayud in Northern Spain, there is high alcohol and a slight ruby-red grapefruit nose with dark cherry and licorice flavors. From the Southern Rhône, Grenache-based blends have a smoky herbal note of oregano, lavender, and tobacco. The cooler climate of the Rhône can add a nice finesse and slightly lower alcohol. American Grenache will be more fruit-forward and lack the herbal notes of Old-World bottlings. Expect more licorice, and don’t be surprised to find the American wines blended with a small amount of Syrah to add tannin and color intensity.

These flavorful wines pair well with roasted meats and vegetables. Consider using Asian Five-Spice or Cumin on the meats or veggies to enhance the wine. High-alcohol wines naturally subdue the spiciness of many ethnic foods.

Texas Grenache, when made into a red wine, is typically light in color, but don’t let that fool you. The wines can be full of flavor, rich in tannins, and high in alcohol. Here are my top picks: